Coffee has created its own “culture” in Turkey are the famous words of the
great Turkish 20th century poet, Yahya Kemal. A little bit more than a casual
visit to Turkey would convince anyone that this is the case. Coffee for Turks
is not simply a drink, but has its own history, its institutions
(coffeehouses), its rituals, its own rules of when and how to drink it, and
even a tradition of fortune-telling by reading the coffee grinds deposited at
the bottom of a traditional Turkish coffee cup… Most Turks would find it
superfluous to call it Turkish coffee: coffee is Turkish coffee.
Turks were introduced to coffee over four and a half centuries
ago. A short while after a governor to Yemen brought back to Istanbul and
introduced to the Ottoman capital beans of Coffee Arabica, the metropolitan
city was teeming with coffeehouses. (To read more about Turkish coffeehouses
click here). Within a century, first Venice, than London and Paris were
introduced to coffee via the Ottomans, which naturally acquired its epithet
“Turkish” to become “Turkish coffee”. In some Western countries Turkish coffee
is also known as Greek coffee as they were introduced to this type of coffee
and coffee-making via the Greeks.
Shortly after coffee was introduced to the Ottomans in 1543, it became so
popular so quickly that coffeehouses were opened and small shops opened
specializing in roasting coffee. Coffee roasting is called “tahmis” and to this
day there is a street called Tahmis in the Eminonu neighborhood in Istanbul
where the so-called Egyptian spice bazaar is located. Its name derived from the
coffee shops located on this street 460 years ago.
Let’s go back to what the poet said: What would a “culture”
created by coffee mean (“kahve medeniyeti” in Turkish, which is hard to
translate since the expression denotes something that extends beyond the more
restrictive term “culture”)? Is there such thing as “culture” when it comes to
coffee? We cannot answer this question directly without going into the whole
experience of coffee. We will therefore approach it from various angles. First
its ritualistic element:
Why would coffee be associated with rituals or ceremonies? In
its first aspect, this refers to the special way of making Turkish coffee. The
etiquette that has developed around coffee-making, even though it has changed
somewhat from former times, constitutes a set of rules coffee lovers still try
to adhere (many times in spirit if not to the letter. See section How to make
Turkish Coffee? for more information.
A second aspect of the ritualistic element in Turkish coffee
refers to certain traditional elements that have been woven into it. One strong
tradition dictates the typical (and also, to some extent, stereotypical)
situation where the family of a young man visits the family of the bride-to-be
to ask for their permission for their marriage. The girl whose hand is sought
is supposed to bring coffee on a coffee tray, and traditionally this is the
only time she has a say in the whole affair. The vote she casts is expressed in
terms of how sweet the makes the coffee, ranging from extra sweet (a definite
yes) to “no sugar” (a definite no), and at times to salty coffee, a step
shorter than not appearing at all.
This tradition notwithstanding, to sweeten coffee with sugar is
a relatively new usage (“new” considering a tradition of about four and a half
centuries.). Turks used to drink their coffee without any sugar. Instead, it
was customary to eat or drink something sweet either before or after the
coffee, sweetened fruit juices known as sherbet, fruit preserves, Turkish
delight, sultan’s paste, halva, or other confectionery.
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